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Shimmy Monster

25 Tuesday Nov 2014

Tags

a. homer hilsen, headshake, high trail, Hunqapillar, jack brown, low-trail, Rivende, shimmy, Toussaint


In my estimate, shimmy is something that is related to weight balance on the bike, frame/fork thickness/stiffness, and perhaps tires.  Oh yeah – lets not forget velocity, either.  If you enjoy stretching occasionally by riding no-handed, shimmy is a demon to be dealt with.

I’ve had some experience with shimmy on my A. Homer Hilsen, but it has been sporadic, and changing things like bar height, front and rear load, and tires seems to impact how bad it is.  I leave out speed, as there’s no way I’m going to try to limit that.

Nope – she doesn’t shimmy

When I first built the bike, it had Noodles at around seat height, and I was using Jack Brown tires.  No shimmy was present with this 25 lb configuration.  I went through a few variations, and initially noticed that when I moved the bars higher, I seemed to get some shimmy.  This usually kicked in riding no-handed above 15 mph.  I generally kept the load up front on the bike, and this seemed to dampen the shaking, so I was fairly happy.  However, with my recent foray into low trail (Cycles Toussaint – no shimmy ever, BTW), I was interested in moving the load back on the Hilsen so it matched the geometry of this higher trail bike.  Or so I thought…

BH-12.jpg

Perfectly good headset

 

It’s been said that a needle bearing headset can cure shimmy.  I’ve never used one before, so I guess it was time to check this theory out.  I overhauled the bike a month ago, and figured it was time to check the headset.  Since it was out, I put in a Miche needle bearing headset, and at the same time added my former front rack to the back of the bike.  It seemed like it needed a basket, so I put the medium Wald/Shopsack combo on it that worked so nicely in the past on the front of the bike.

S H I M M Y Y Y Y Y Y . . . . .

BH-5.jpg

Shimmy Monster

Wow – I took this in to work with perhaps 5 lbs of gear in the back, and the shimmy was so bad, it even shimmied with my hands on the bar several times.  I experimented with holding my weight forward while I released my hands.  This worked at first, but as I moved back to a more upright position, it released the shaking, shifting frame shimmy.

Hmmm – needle bearing not an answer here.  After my ride home, I removed the basket/rack combo, and put my front handlebar bag back on.  I tied off the tools in my roll bag under the seat.  This cured the beast.

BH-1.jpg

No more shakes

 

Solution for my bike – weight needs to go up front with only a bit of weight allowed under the seat.  No weight out back or I get the shakes.  It is interesting that my Hunqapillar has never shaken its wooly head.  I generally carry weight on the front, however, and this bike has a long top tube that stretches me out putting the weight more forward.  It also has beefy, stiff tubes that, like the Toussaint, seem to repel shimmy monsters.

I’ve read of several other light, road Rivendells having a similar tendency, so I will chalk this up to balancing weight properly for the bicycle.  If you have shimmy, hopefully this will give you some things to mess around with.

Posted by Stonehog | Filed under Cycling

≈ 2 Comments

Tale of two rando bikes

28 Wednesday May 2014

Posted by Stonehog in Cycling

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

a. homer hilsen, Barlow Pass, brevet, Cycles Toussaint, jack brown, light bike tires, randonneur, rivendell, tires, Velo Routier


After my brief flirtation with a bigger tire on my Hilsen, I’m back to the real original version.  Jack Brown 33.3s.  They actually measure just under 34mm, so only 3 or 4 mm smaller than the Barlows.  Who knew!  They feel great, and I don’t have as much toe overlap with this setup.

BH-1.jpg

I noticed how much this bike is like the “new” rando I’ve been taking on the longer rides this year.  Slightly different geometry on the frames, different tire size, but really close to the same measurements at the body contact points.  Here are two side by sides:

A. Homer Hilsen

BH-5.jpg

Velo Routier

BH-8.jpg

I’m using the same seat, bars, and cranks.  Pedals will soon be the same if I can make up my mind on the clipless of choice.  There is one main difference I could feel today on my ride home.  The bars on the Hilsen are 2cm above seat height.  On the Routier, they are only  1cm above the seat.  This was changed as soon as i got home as I’ve been plenty comfortable on the Routier this season, and the Hilsen actually felt a bit odd – like I was riding a “comfort” setting.  It was not feeling quite the same in the power output.  With the bars dropped, and a test ride to confirm, I now have a spare rando bike (it was actually the original brevet bike and did just fine for the past two seasons).

BH-4.jpg

Now I just need to get the time to actually devote a day to a ride!

 

Barlow Pass

13 Tuesday May 2014

Posted by Stonehog in Cycling

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

a. homer hilsen, Barlow Pass, compass, cypres, fenders, Gran Bois, honjo, Hunqapillar, jack brown, rivendell, tires, toe overlap, VO, Zeppelins


BH-4.jpg

After putting 38mm tires (Compass Barlow Pass) and new fenders (VO Zeppelins) on my Hilsen, and riding them for a month or so, I have the following observations.

  1. They are cushy and ride well
  2. They are light (I have the Extra Lights) and don’t slow my pace down
  3. They increase stand over height by a half cm or so (it is noticeable)
  4.  The bike handles about the same
  5. The tread is very grippy – I like the sure-footedness
  6. There is now quite a bit of toe overlap, and I have bounced the fender several times during slow maneuvers
  7. The difference between my 31mm Cypress and these 38mm Barlows is much less evident than jumping to a 42mm Hetre

I am slowly coming to the realization that I like smaller, fatter wheels on road bikes, but if I’m on a 700c, 33.3mm is the most I need.  On both the Hunqapillar and my Hilsen the favorite tires for pure road riding have been either Gran Bois Cypres or Rivendell Jack Brown (Greens).  Both combos make the bikes feel fast, agile, and just “right”.  They also do a good enough job to absorb road bumps that I don’t feel beat up even after a long (200k/300k) ride.  When I have a bigger tire (35mm+) on a 700c wheel, the bike feels a bit ponderous.

Green in Front

I really want to like the Barlows – but they are just not Hetres, and they aren’t feeling significantly better or more comfortable than the Cypres/JBs.  I don’t know if the added volume makes the toe overlap worth the bother. I also like the hammered Honjo fenders I had on this bike.  They added a touch of class…

BH-1.jpg

Lighten It Up?

27 Sunday Jan 2013

Posted by Stonehog in Cycling

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

a. homer hilsen, abus lock, bike packing, dureme, Hunqapillar, jack brown, kickstand, light bikes, saddlesack, schwalbe, shopsack


In another post, I talked about tires, but I’m also going to plug keeping your bike as light as you can for city/general fun riding.  It really comes into play for me in hilly Seattle.  I live on a hill and have about 900 feet of elevation gain on my ride home, with maybe 400 feet on the way in.  This is where the weight hurts.  Climbing can be fun, but if the destination is work or home, it’s just not like a touring destination to put up with extra weight.

Lots of Carrying Capacity

Another personal preference is to keep the pack on the bike and off the back.  I don’t like sweaty-back, or the off-balance feel when I have a backpack or messenger bag, and long ago converted to using bike bags to carry my work clothes, laptop, iPad, keys, etc…

Dropped the Double Kickstand and Basket/Bag Combo

The Hunqapillar was pushing it in my comfort zone as it probably approached 35lbs in weight with the big back saddle bag, heavy lock, heavy Schwalbe Dureme tires, and double kickstand.  I also have a front and rear rack that adds some weight to the overall package. Now some of this I don’t want to give up – I like having the racks for unexpected loads, and the rear rack is the mount for my taillight.  The bag and lock are not entirely necessary all the time.  The tires are overkill unless I’m on the dirt mountain trails.  It’s like carrying your loaded camping backpack with you when you take the bus to work.  It may come in handy during an earthquake, but 99.999% of the time, it just makes you tired faster.

Things I’ve done:

  1. Dropped the double leg kickstand – single leggers are light and fine for the commute
  2. Swapped the SaddleSack Medium for the Xtra Small that just fits my tools – I am using the ShopSack bungied to the front rack if I need to carry big stuff
  3. Lost the Abus lock – will carry a small cable/padlock as a deterrent for the short coffee stops I rarely make on the commute
  4. Swapped out the Duremes for Jack Browns (green front, blue back)

Ahhh – Jack Browns and X-Small SaddleSack

Initial feel is that this made rolling along much easier and more fun for me.  I had similar average speeds on my Hunqa and Hilsen for my commutes this week. I noticed that the Hunqa still feels more “solid”.   I’m definitely not heavy enough to plane this bike without more weight on it.  When I take it camping, or up in the mountains, I’ll put what I need back on, but for now, I’m happier with the Hunqa-lite….

Green in the Front, Blue in the Back

27 Sunday Jan 2013

Posted by Stonehog in Cycling

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

a. homer hilsen, bike commute, commuting, cycling, cypres, dureme, flat tire, Gran Bois, Hunqapillar, jack brown, rivendell, schwalbe


I love Rivendell Jack Brown tires.  They are a great combo of cush on a 700c wheel and low rolling resistance.

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/t100-g.htm

Hilsen with Jacks

I have had Jack Brown’s on my A. Homer Hilsen for a few years, with a brief fling using the also sublime Gran Bois Cypres tires. For the past 6 months, I’ve been regularly riding a Hunqapillar with heavier Schwalbe Duremes on my work commute of 10-20 miles, and I have been gradually come to a conclusion.  Heavy tires with tough sidewalls are great for avoiding flats, but I don’t like riding on them.  They feel really sluggish – like I’m constantly pushing and fighting to keep the bike moving.  Not fun to me.  Biking should be fun.

Hunqa with Jacks

With that in mind, I swapped out the Duremes for my extra set of Jack Browns and rode in the other day with this configuration.  Yes – it made a difference.  I also noticed the difference in feel of the bike frame going from the more flexy AHH to the stiffer Hunqapillar.  My normal cruising speed on the flats is 15-20 mph depending on the inclines/wind/legs on the AHH.  With the heavy Schwalbe Duremes (50mm) on the Hunqa, I was typically struggling to keep it at 13 mph.

Now, I’m not trying to set speed records, but I’ve found that the beauty of “road” bikes is that they typically feel more effortless on the pavement.  In my many years commuting with a mountain bike with roadish tires, I know that a lot of it has to do with geometry as well, but tires DO make a big difference.  That said, it’s not the diameter, it’s the weight, and the sidewall.  Big cushy tires can be AWESOME if they are light and have a supple sidewall.

Blue in Back

Green in Front

Yes, you will get more flats.  Only you will be able to decide if the rest of the time riding is worth the few flats.  I’m not in goathead country, so the biggest problem is road trash (glass, radial wires, nails).  This will result in a flat every few months.  I can live with this.  To avoid it as much as possible, I use the Jack Brown Blue (kevlar belt) as my rear tire, and the lighter, suppler Green on the front.  This keeps me pretty flat proof, as everyone knows that you always get flats on the tire that is hardest and messiest to change (rear).

Now I just need to move those fenders in a bit…

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